Why Does Hair Go Brassy In The Sun?

 

Have you ever left the hair salon with the perfect colour only for it to become brassy after several weeks and wonder why this happens? This is a phenomenon that faces everyone, whether their hair is natural, coloured or bleached. Depending on how dark or light your hair is the brassy colour will vary from deep red to orange and yellow tones. 

 So why does this occur?

 There are several factors that contribute to our hair going brassy.  In this article, I am going to focus on the main reason, the sun.

Before doing so we need to understand a little bit more about our hair colour or melanin.

Melanin is what gives our hair its colour. In the hair, there are two types of melanin colour molecules called eumelanin and pheomelanin. Eumelanin is the dark, black and brown pigments in the hair. Pheomelanin is the hair's lighter, red, orange and yellow pigments. 

All hair contains a mixture of black, brown, red, orange and yellow colour pigments, just in different proportions. Someone with black hair has predominantly black and brown colour pigments while someone with strawberry blonde hair has predominantly yellow and a few brown colour pigments in their hair. A person with red hair has predominantly red colour pigments with some orange and yellow pigments also present.

When hair is lightened through bleaching or exposure to UV rays from the sun, the first thing to happen is the black and brown pigments are dissolved leaving the red, orange and yellow pigments in the hair. If we continue the bleaching process the red then the orange pigments are dissolved leaving the yellow pigments. Once the yellow pigments have dissolved no melanin is left in the hair and it becomes susceptible to breakage. This is what hairdressers call over-processed hair.

 

We can see from the process of bleaching hair that once the black and brown pigments have been removed from the hair we are left with a mixture of the brassy colours, red, orange and yellow. In hairdressing in order to neutralise these brassy colours we use another colour called a toner. A green/mat toner neutralises red, a blue/ash toner neutralises orange, and a purple/violet toner neutralises yellow. 

The toner is also used to add the desired new colour to the hair. 

On leaving the hair salon, the sun's UV rays start the lightening process all over again. This is called photobleaching. The UV rays start to slowly dissolve the toner. Once the toner has been dissolved we are left once again with the brassy red, orange and yellow undertones. So the key to preventing our hair from looking brassy is to preserve the toner for as long as possible.

One way of achieving this is to use a protective spray that shields the hair from the damaging effects of the sun's UV rays. 

 For this, I highly recommend Oribe Invisible Defence Universal Protection Spray.

The Oribe Signature Complex (Watermelon, Lychee and Edelweiss Flower) defends hair from oxidative stress, photoaging and the deterioration of natural keratin all while protecting it from the drying, damaging and colour-depleting effects of the elements. It also contains a multifunction UV absorber that helps to protect hair from the harmful effects of UV rays while providing anti-static properties.

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Another option I would recommend is Mr. Smith Leave In Treatment which contains

Cupuaçu Butter. The butter helps provide natural UV protection from UVA and UVB rays and moisturises the hair.

MR.S404 Mr. Smith Leave In 100ml 2

 

If you are looking for a shampoo that protects your hair and toner from the elements then I highly recommend Oribie Shampoo for Beautiful Colour. 

The benefits of using Oribe shampoo for beautiful colour include:

  1. Colour Protection: The shampoo contains a unique blend of ingredients that help protect hair colour from fading. UV filters shield hair from the sun's damaging rays, while antioxidants protect hair from free radicals and other environmental stressors.
  2. Moisture Retention: Oribe shampoo contains natural oils and extracts that help to lock in moisture and prevent colour from fading due to dryness. This helps to keep hair looking shiny and vibrant.
  3. Gentle Formula: Oribe shampoo is gentle enough for daily use and is suitable for all hair types. It does not contain harsh chemicals or sulphates that can strip hair of its natural oils or damage its colour.
  4. Strengthening: Oribe shampoo contains keratin and hydrolyzed vegetable protein, which help to strengthen hair and prevent breakage. This is especially important for colour-treated hair, which can become weakened and brittle over time.
  5. Nourishing: Oribe shampoo contains a range of nourishing ingredients, including vitamins, minerals, and amino acids. These help to improve the overall health of the hair and leave it looking and feeling soft, silky, and healthy.

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Some other factors that contribute to hair colour turning brassy are Hard Water and Chlorine: Hard water or Chlorinated water deposits minerals on the hair, that when exposed to heat styling or the sun will make the colour go brassy. 

Solution: Washing hair straight away after exposure to the swimming pool and sea water is a must, do not let the hair dry before you wash the chlorine or seawater out. In areas where the water is really hard or well water is being used a filter shower head is advisable, to clean out some impurities in the water. 

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